Cycling many smaller hills in Kosovo and assuming to take a shortcut, I went up a longer hill, in the beginning of dawn.

The surprising thing on that day was that each village had on house with open gates and loud music. I did not investigate into this one, it looked as if there was a special festival day going on. As I learnt from another rider, yes special day: Saturday.

I came up to that lonely peak and there was a place looking like a restaurant, as I was looking for one, I could not resist in entering this place. The waiter came out immediately to help me with my bike and showing me the way in.

Having a seat, the guys inside – inside was room for max. 8 people- tried to get me involved in their round. There were already pretty drunk what made them really nice people, probably. As each one of them looked like a bear for himself.

As one guy spent some time in Germany and I remembered some Russian, we could have a rather good conversation. Here one of my basic rules for conversation in the US came in place! No talks about politics and religion. This would make sure that I leave this place as welcomed as I came into it.

One of the guys, he seems to be the head of something, offered me to stay in his house over night. I told him that I only sleep every second night, which was a little lie. They told me that it is not safe riding through the night out here. As I told them for how long time I was already riding through the night, they asked me where my pistol was to protect myself against wild animals. I told them that I do not own a pistol and that I do not need one. At that moment all of the present guys, lifted their shirts and showed me their guns. Hu, this was a really strange moment.

As it is impossible for me to look through these influences of the military onto the people, it is definitely a difficult thing. Each village has big painted walls with their army heroes that protected the villagers. I cannot say anything about the separation of executive and legislative levels in such areas or even countries. Old bosses also remain bosses in the new organisation.

Shortly before I left my dinner place, an escort of three big cars rushed to that restaurant and the guys walked through the restaurant, saying hello to everyone by kissing left and right. Also I got involved in that ceremony, the stinking foreigner. Led out by the guy that I called Boss,  these guys went outside to a separate table to discuss whatever. This was a special moment during my ride and I cannot be certain that these guys were always nice. This is the moment when history and ethnies come into place. For example, if I was a Serbian, definitely I would not have been welcomed at that place, the way I was.

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If you weren’t already blown away on the way to Durmitor, then it gonna happen just there.

I chose a pretty particular way to get there, called r432a. With the help of Ivan I could figure out that this path can be used for border crossing even there was no border control. Before this walk I charged coffeine and carbs in Gacko, full of Börek, I crossed the border. 

The parcours at check point 04 was the longest of all, 40kms with a final pass to be crossed at almost 2000m of elevation.

Dinner in freezing cold Zabeljak, saying goodbye to Camille and John the photographer and leaving. Crazy night ride, only climbing. I think climbing shall really be over now. Endless roads to be climbing, water on the roads and dogs!

I did not plan to stop, but I had to. Really this climbing sucks. It really sucks!

It sounds strange, until now I do not change my route due to the Skopje things. I put on my all terrain wheels, this shall not sound disrespectful. 

The city of dogs. On the way to here I stopped in Mostar, last time before today was 25 years ago.

The cemeteries have a really interesting style, never seen that anywhere else.

More than 20kms climbing after leaving Mostar, then into the woods, with several dog chasing behind me.

Now I need to get out of my warm sleeping bag and ride on, hope to find a coffee up here, freezing cold!

Finally made it into Mostar. A little behind the perfect schedule, but this is only my very own schedule.

It got pretty cool and winds got stronger again. Tricky at night as you cannot check the trees in front of you, in terms of wind strength and direction. So only way is slow.

At that time of the day a touristical tour does not make a lot of sense. Last time I was here is now 25 years ago. Wow, I am old now.

I am just on my slow but smooth way to Mostar. It is still a pretty windy day. It is absolutely unforeseeable behind which corner to expect the next gusts. Had some smaller rains today, not worth a rain jacket. After climbing another hill towards Imotski, i found the following view. It makes me totally speechless. 

Prolosko Blato
I had another börek dinner, a chat with the family -facetime is just awesome-. Now I get prepared again to warm myself up for the night. Up here it is windy and cold.

All the rest from the shanghai guys seem to be good and/ or back in good shape! Enjoyment on its highest level!

Borek and a warm coke in a bus stop, exactly in the middle of nowhere. Not too far from Gradac.

Keep things simple, don’t forget!

Can someone please send him my best best best wishes! Thanks for your support!